Surviving against the odds: Irani Cafes of Karachi

Stepping into High Ceiling and dimly lit Irani cafes with vintage furniture, mosaic chipped floors and tablecloths take one back to old Karachi. These desolate Irani cafes were once hubs of social and intellectual exchange and frequented by students, journalists, and intellectuals.

The history of Irani cafes can be traced back to the early 1900s when Parsis migrated to the port cities of the subcontinent to escape the economic crisis in Iran. Most settled in Bombay and the rest in Karachi.

Parsis established Irani cafes, coffee shops and bakeries all over Karachi. By the 70s there were hundreds of Irani cafes and restaurants now a few remains.

Inside Cafe Darakhshan on MA Jinnah Road, is one of Karachi's oldest surviving Irani cafes that has maintained its vintage aesthetics and cuisine. Photo by Author.

Art Deco stair of Cafe Darakhsan leading to the family hall; mosaic tiles and metallic grills are a reminder of bygone days.

Cafe Mubarak, more than 50 years old, is situated on Garden road and a couple miles from the IBA city campus hence a popular breakfast and hangout spot among IBA students.

Cafe Mubarak is a popular choice among office workers, youth and the old because of the unchanging nostalgic ambiance and affordable menu.

Customers relaxing on a hot summer afternoon at Cafe Mubarak.

Cafe Mubarak's special Irani desserts; egg pudding and custard and beverages.

Chullu Kebab at Cafe Mubarak is an Iranian rice-based dish that includes tender kebabs, grilled tomatoes and green chillies, French fries, and butter.

Cafe Mubarak's speciality is Irani chai. traditional Irani tea is different from doodh patti. The tea is presented with separate components such as milk, sugar, and a lightly brewed qahwa.

Inflation, religious intolerance, the deaths and departure of successful business owners, the rising cost of real estate, and commercialization are some of the factors that have contributed to the demise of Iranian cafes.

Middle Class were a significant demographic for Iranian cafes in the 70s and 80s and were greatly responsible for their success. Now Middle Class crumbled under inflation and is finding it increasingly difficult to afford menu pricing.

According to Muhammad Mushtaq, 68 year old server at Cafe Mubarak:

"Growing religious intolerance also poses a threat to profit. Owners of the cafes have been targeted because of their Ismaili Shia identity. People do not prefer to eat at Irani cafes because of the owner's religious affiliation."

68 years old Mushtaq Ahmed carrying chullu kebab order. Mushtaq has been working in Cafe Mubarak for the past thirty years.

Irani Cafes and joints are keeping up with the changing trends in the food industry. Cafe Darakhshan, running since the 60s, has stayed true to its roots while adapting to commercialization.

The menu and ambience have remained unchanged but the adjacent Cafe Pehlvi owned by the same family has morphed to cater to modern tastes. Cafe Pehlvi now serves a variety of Pakistani, Oriental, and fast food dishes.

Cafe Pehlvi with new seating, fresh interior design, and an updated menu.

Cafe Darakhshan's special Irani pulao served topped with fried eggs, crispy chicken bites and potato fries remains popular among both older and younger generations despite the odds.

Al Khairabad on I.I. Chundrigar Road has been in business since 1932. Abbas Ali whose roots trace back to Yazd Province in Iran, inherited the business In 1973 and made efforts to adapt to changing times. The name was changed from Khairabad cafe to AL Khairabad tea shop and hotel.

Hotel Al Khairabad's 1950s-style mahogany and green booths with faux leather cushions and patterned mosaic tilework are a relic of Karachi's nostalgic past.

Abbas Ali expanded the cafe into a hotel along with the menu to meet the demand for wider taste and ever-growing real estate prices. The name was changed from Khairabad cafe to AL Khairabad tea shop and hotel. Khairabad offers more than 90 dishes; barbecue, shellfish, sabzi ghotala, chicken jalfrezi, and fast food are popular among customers.

When asked about the challenges faced by cafe owners, Abbas Ali expressed that Irani cafes are located in high-demand residential areas, like those in Saddar and Clifton hence landlords are pressuring them into vacating so that they can build high rise apartments and commercial buildings on our properties.

Some cafe owners accepted the defeat and closed their doors But places like Khairabad and Chullu Kebab Sistani continue running and adapting as they still have faith in their loyal customers and legal justice.

Chullu Sistani previously known as Subhani Cafe is 15 minutes walk away from Cafe Darakhshan and has been transformed into an upscale cafe catering to upper middle class customers.

Irani cafes, despite all the odds, continue to survive because of their loyal customers and resilience. It is indeed disheartening to witness the decline of Irani cafe culture, once an important part of Karachi’s social and economic fabric.